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Day 29 - Vega de Vacarces to O Cobreiro

Writer's picture: Robin RudwickRobin Rudwick

We were feeling pretty tough now. We had planned to send the bags on and walk up to O Cobreiro. But now we were pack carrying!. We left at 0550.

This was a view across the stream at 0550.


This was taken at about 0630 in the next village. Our track followed the road for a while.

I forgot to mention that it was 8°C when we left. This was as cold as crossing the Pyrenees. We passed what looked like some of the horses used to carry people up to O Cobreiro.


You can see the saddle marks on its back. Ruth says they are not being looked after as well as they could be.

Anyway, now the hard climb began, starting at the valley bottom with a steep climb up, followed by a zigzag path through quite thick tree cover. The track itself was very rocky with some mud. It was quite cool and damp. But the climb was very steep. We had a couple of false alarms where we expecting a bar to be open. Ruth seemed to be doing better than me at the climbing. We finally found a place open for breakfast. It was the usual coffee and cake for Ruth and coffee and tortilla for me.

It was a big piece of tortilla! I must have a go at making them.

I really liked the Cafe tables

Around this time we had a great time watching a huge lorry negotiating tiny roads and avoiding a slow speed cattle stampede.

There was a cattle drover and an excitable dog trying to control them.


I'll include a few sky shots, so you can see the mist and cloud cover. Note also, the use of a bed base as a gate. This reuse of bed frames is common across northern Spain.

The path to O Cobreiro crosses the Galicia border and is marked by this imposing Monument. It seems Galicia takes the Camino very seriously, recognising that it contributes enormously to the local economy.

This statue marks the end of the path to O Cobreiro.

You can see how misty it is at this height.

I like this picture because it could be a total fake. But it's all real. Possibly the only magic at O Cobreiro!


This is the famous church at O Cobreiro. It was nice enough.


I'll include a few photos of the famous round houses

They looked great. Some of the thatch needed relaying. There was a museum in one of the houses, but they were all shut, it being Monday!


We had gotten up there early and were finished viewing the village by 1030. We had tried a few Albergues for a room but had no luck. We had to queue until 1300. It was very cold. Inez is the lady in the green sleeping bag.

The Albergue sleeps 100 - 50 to a room. It was going to be a long night. We went to the closest restaurant. I had the menu del día and Ruth some pasta bolognese.

The last photo is of some pie type thing given as a pincho.


This was a photo of the afternoon sky.


And this is Ruth wearing socks with sandals, as its so cold.

That's a boars head. The guy in the carving is playing Galician bag pipes. This was a very nice place

and we drank and ate pinchos until 2030 and time for bed. There was some strange graffiti in the gents toilet.

It was strange enough that I sent it to some German friends.

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